Nic's CDT Hike

A Walk in Glacier National Park

To anyone who had been anxiously waiting the return of my blog, I apologize for the delay; all these off days in between hiking really distracted from my blogging. The updates I had planned on providing at the end of last fall took a back seat when I transitioned out of the thru hiker schedule back into a more place based living situation. Still, I’ve been very lucky to be able to keep the adventure alive in many different ways, skiing, mountain biking, rafting and now finishing the last/first 100 miles of the CDT.

A little less than a year after I ended my thru hike at the Mexico border I returned to Montana to hike the first 100 miles of trail through Glacier National park. The CDT was closed last summer through the park out of concerns for the pandemic, so I started my hike at Marias pass at the southern end of the park. Jessie and Anna, who started the hike with me last summer, are still living in Northern Montana, so not only did I get to hike, but I also got to spend some time with two of my best friends. It’s such a joy to be with them, and they were kind enough to pick me up/ drop me off for my hike this time too.

I had forgotten it was Labor day weekend when I planned this trip, so I didn’t end up with the exact permit for which I had hoped. The busy last weekend of the summer season meant many of the campsites were already full. I had some long hiking days, which I assured the ranger issuing my permit I was confident I could handle, but in reality I was nervous to hike such long days after a summer without hiking hardly at all. I assume the warnings printed on the permit are automatically assigned by the system when certain criteria are met, they made me laugh looking at my own permit.

I hiked for five days, spending four nights in the park. The campsites, including the backcountry ones, were all developed to some degree, including pit toilets and a bear hang, as well as designated food prep areas, fire rings, and even benches to sit and cook on. This felt luxurious compared to some of the backpacking I’d done last summer. Plus, every site included other backpackers, always great company!

I had a 30 mile day on my permit, which I got up early for, nervous about my hiking stamina which had not been tested since ski season. I was moving by 7 am, but I was surprised to find the hiking much easier than I anticipated, and made it to camp no problem! After that I still had two 25 mile days, and by the end of the trip I was reminded of the fatigue and foot pain which I had some how grown resilient to last summer.

Thinking back to my hike last summer, I often divide it up into two different sections in my head. The first two months through Montana, Idaho and Wyoming, and the last two and a half months through Colorado and New Mexico. For the first two months, I didn’t see anyone I knew and saw far fewer town stops and people on trail. For the latter half of the journey I was visited on trail by friends, and family, I spent more time with other hikers on trail, and I was able to take time off trail to be with my loved ones when we needed it. This last section felt like an experience all in its own, a lot more social, a lot different than what I experienced last summer. I think I saw more NOBO thru hikers finishing their hikes in these days than I saw total CDT hikers all of last summer. This is reportedly the busiest year the CDT has ever seen, and I believe it seeing the number of through hikers in and around Glacier. It was fun to chat with other hikers and hear stories from the trail this year. I also met a lot of other interesting hikers/backpackers enjoying the park. It was a great experience to get to share the joy of such a beautiful place with a variety of people and still enjoy some time alone while hiking for the long days. Mostly, however, this felt a lot more like backpacking and less like thru hiking; a different set of goals and a different mindset.

My hair was shorter and my clothes were cleaner when I started last summer

We know how to take a good photo: stand in a parking lot, pit toilet in the background, and look awkwardly at one another

Finishing up this small section of trail felt a lot less sentimental than it might have. I don’t foresee the same descent into sadness that I experienced last summer at the end of my hike. Instead I’m looking forward to a few months in between jobs and lots of time with my friends and family. I’m so thankful for the people in my life who make these sort of things possible, and I promise to keep everyone updated on the next big adventure when it comes.

Thanks for reading! -Nic

The Last Step

At about 11:30 on Sunday, November 8th, I reached the southern terminus of the Continental Divide Trail at the Crazy Cook monument.

The last eighty miles of hiking from Lordsburg to the border, while mildly sentimental, were the least enjoyable of this entire hike. I had heard that hikers going Northbound (starting at the Mexico border and heading towards Canada) will often quit after this section. Until hiking through here myself, I thought this absolutely ridiculous. Now, however, I can only admire the resilience of hikers who persevere after what would be a treacherous start. The hiking through here was either on dirt road, or cross country trail with undeveloped tread. The hiker is, at times, forced to pick her way through thorny bushes and cactuses across huge swaths of land. More frustration awaits Southbound hikers because the trail is only blazed for hikers headed the opposite direction, so rather than looking for bright blue CDT blazes, the hiker must squint to spot the grey backs of these signs hidden in the brush. The experience is heightened by persistent howling winds which threaten to take the hikers hat away at any moment.

Of course, these miles need not sully the experience as a whole, and I was excited to reach the final destination. At the border, I reconnected with Bearmagnet, a hiker I had run into several times since Pie Town. We had camped in the same spot the night prior. He, being a much earlier riser than myself, arrived at the terminus an hour or so before I did. Upon arriving, he completed his “Triple crown” (hiking the three major long trails: PCT, AT, and CDT), an endeavor which he has pursued for the past three years. We took a few photos, said our congratulations, ate a few celebratory gummy bears, and then hiked a dirt road out to meet my mom who generously drove down from Albuquerque to pick us up. Bearmagnet was meeting his grandparents in Deming, so we dropped him off there, and then my mom and I headed back to Corrales after enjoying a meal together.

A nice reminder that this is the last mile of trail

As my journey has come to a close, I have been working through a lot of thoughts and feelings about its end. While I am excited to spend some more time with my friends and family, I’m not feeling quite ready to give up this experience. This summer been immensely rewarding, and in the face of the joy and strife I’ve experienced on trail, this stone marker at the Mexico border seems like an awfully arbitrary ending to the endeavor. Of course, the perspective I have gained and the joy I’ve felt do not end at that terminus. The goal, after all, is to bring back those important things which can be gained from this sort of undertaking. This winter, I am planning on working in Leadville again and skiing as much as I can. Until then, I’m looking forward to spending some time with my loved ones.

On that note, I’m so thankful to have been able to share this experience with the friends and family who are following. Keeping this blog has certainly made for a richer experience, and I think as I move on to other adventures I’d like to keep it going; so if you’re interested, stay tuned!

Although I often hiked alone, this was never a solo adventure. I am evermore grateful for the kindness bestowed by friends, family, and strangers. Thank you to: Anna and Jessie for driving me to Montana and for being such inspirational friends, the section hikers for driving me into Lincoln (my first hitch), Shelby for giving me a ride out of Lincoln, the family of mountain bikers near Stemple pass for giving me water, ice cream, snacks, and kindness, Dave at high mountain outfitters for the kale salad and awesome gear shop, Jedi for the handcrafted hiking sticks and company down the trail, all the hikers I ran into who welcomed me into the thru hiker community, the backpackers I met in Darby, Sam in Leadore, ID for the one of the most amazing town stops on the trail, Ryan in Wyoming for his kindness and enthusiasm, the backpackers in the Wind Rivers who gave me their extra food, Wild Bill’s B&B for a much needed shower, Kelly for the the hotel room in Rawlins to rest after hiking through the great basin and for the love and support, all the people who gave me water, everyone who sent me letters on my birthday, Karen in Grande Lake for some fabulous trail angeling, Matt, Madi, Noel, Oona, Piper, Noah and all my closest friends for the emotional support, Connor/Neapolitan for hiking through the snow with me and being the best trail friend, Curt and Logan for the rides and company at Wolf Creek pass, Brian, Megan and all the people who drove back and forth to make it possible for Jules to join us on the trail, Jules for being willing to do her first backpacking trip with us, Mark for the inspiration and love throughout this journey and everyday we are together, my parents for their love and enthusiasm, for mailing all of my food and for coming to camp with me in New Mexico, and many, many more people for helping create this amazing experience!

Much love, Nic

Last Town Stop

With only three days of hiking left, I’m feeling excited to see the end of this journey!

The past 70 miles have seen very little water, but the desert has been beautiful! There were only two sure water sources on trail between Silver City and Lordsburg. I ran into Bearmagnet again just outside of Lordsburg and hiked into town with him.

I’ll be in touch soon with final words from the end of my journey! -Nic

Cold mornings, warm water

After waiting out the worst of the cold snap and snow storm, with my family in Corrales, my dad drove me back out to the trail.

Mom and dad and Kahless (dog) and I before I got off trail preceding the snow storm

I still saw a little bit of snow on the ground, but with the snowfall past, I was able to keep hiking, and importantly camp, in comfort.

After the recent desert hiking, the Gila river route was an exciting experience. For about 30 miles, I followed the trail through the canyon created by the middle fork of the Gila. The area was beautiful! And the hike, which included an estimated 50 river crossings, was rewarded, not only with beautiful views, but with hot springs as well!

At Jordon hot springs, a popular backpacking destination, I ran into a few hikers out for the weekend, all from Albuquerque. One of them had actually worked with my mom, and his parents live very near mine! Meeting people on trail in NM has been a fun experience, feeling a little closer to home and a little more connected to the people I meet— most folks in NM are quite excited to hear I’m from the state.

Looking up the Gila river valley where I dropped in

After leaving the middle fork, the trail continues down the west fork of the Gila. Unfortunately, the trail through there is reported to be either overgrown, nonexistent, littered with poison ivy, or destroyed by recent fire/flooding. So instead of work my way through that trail, myself and another hiker I ran into elected to take hwy 15 into Silver city. The road walk was surprisingly scenic and included some great camping in the national forest.

Sheep at the ranch/rv park I stayed at just outside of the Gila national monument

Silver city is a beautiful town, a place I look forward to coming back to and exploring more. I’ll head to Lordsburg next for my last town stop before I finish out this trail! I have less than a week left of hiking! -Nic

Another Snow Day

With another cold front headed my way, my parents kindly offered to pick me up for a few days. The predicted high for yesterday was 24 degrees Fahrenheit in the area I would have been hiking. I waited out the cold snap in the comfort of my parents’ home, and the timing worked out that I got to celebrate my mom’s birthday with her! I’m heading back out today excited to enjoy the last two weeks of my hike!

Big thanks to my loving parents for driving 3 hours one way to take me to and from the trail! -Nic

Dessert in the Desert

Pie Town, NM.

The hike from Grants to Pie Town was mostly road, too much pavement and lots of dirt. Still, the land was beautiful and hiking through El Malpais national monument and conservation area provided some impressive views.

I arrived in Pie Town late and was greeted at “The Toaster House” by the host, Jefferson, and another hiker, Bear Magnet (trail name). Although my stay was brief, I was thankful for the company, the hot shower and food. The donation based hostel is a real treat on the trail, and I was happy to visit. Although I didn’t get any pie in town, the place still felt quite sweet.

Taking advantage of a rare spot of shade along the road to rest

Though the desert is beautiful, the long water carries and road walking has been trying, and I’m looking forward to a little relief from both in the upcoming Gila national forest, although I have a little more road walking to get there.

Thanks for reading! -Nic

A Note on Fun Times

My feet had apparently forgotten, after two weeks of not hiking, what it was like to hike all day. They have been sore and tired as I jumped back into hiking this week. While my body is readjusting, it’s been quite emotionally rejuvenating to be hiking and spending all day outside.

Steps carved into the sandstone on trail

The distance between water sources is lengthening. In the past four days I have not seen a source within 10 miles of the last. The carries along hot and dusty trail have been heavy and tedious, but the desert hiking has been beautiful!

I want to share a few more pictures and memories, too, that I didn’t write about last week. Before getting off trail, Mark and I had a great week of hiking together through northern New Mexico.

Mark and I enjoyed the changing fall colors, and some beautiful hiking together.

Our favorite hiking was in and around Ghost Ranch. We hiked through an idyllic box canyon to find an oasis of a stream where we spent the night just outside of the ranch. The hiking was fun, challenging, and continually presenting us with new, impressive views. We too, enjoyed learning about the history of the ranch and reading about Georgia Okeefe’s time there.

While I miss his company on trail, I’m thankful for the hiking that Mark and I got to do together, and I’m glad he has this time to spend with his family. We are looking forward to many more adventures to come.

Returning to the trail this week has been both challenging and exciting. While I am feeling a resurgence of some of the loneliness I felt at the beginning of my hike, I feel much more confident in my ability to cope with those emotions. I feel truly lucky to be out here and take great comfort in the support I receive from my loved ones. -Nic

A Note on Hard Times

In the weeks since my last post I have had many unexpected and trying experiences.

For the past two weeks I have been off trail with Mark and his family. A little over two weeks ago, Mark’s dad, Dean, unexpectedly received a terminal diagnosis. Mark had been on trail with me for a week, but upon hearing the severity of Dean’s condition, we headed up to Denver to be with his family. A few days after Mark and I arrived, we brought Dean home for in-home hospice care. Dean passed, comfortably, in the company of his wife and son on October 14th around 12 pm.

1980 Grateful Dead Show Redrocks CO
L to R. Dean, Craig, Chuck

Friends and family have shown tremendous support, and I feel lucky to be apart of the amazing group of people who gets to love the Johnson family. In his last weeks, Dean’s friends came to share his love, humor and company. Many friends, too, came to support Kelly and Mark and help with the end of life care efforts for Dean.

Yesterday, I left Denver to prepare to return to the trail. Mark is staying home in Denver with his mom and niece. It was difficult to leave them, but it is not without their support that I return to my hike.I take comfort, too, in knowing how closely Dean followed and supported my hike.

So, today, I head back out to continue the rest of my hike with a heavy heart full with love and grief. I’m looking forward to being back outside and hiking everyday. For all the hardship in the past two weeks, I’m more thankful than ever for the love and support in my life. -Nic

Mark and I on trail, in a beautiful canyon outside of Ghost Ranch

A Walk in the Park Plus Mark

Last week I hiked from Slumgullion to Wolf creek pass through the Weminuche Wilderness area. Upon arrival, I was greeted by old friends and a hurrah to the end of my “solo” adventure as Mark will join my hike from this point forward.

Curt and I at Wolf creek pass- my last “solo” day

Hiking through the Weminuche was an amazing experience. The hiking was challenging and the views were jaw dropping, definitely on the list of places I would like to return.

From Wolf Creek pass Curt drove us to Del Norte where Mark and his niece joined us for a dinner with a few friends in town. After playing a quick game of catch-up that evening, Logan drove us back out to the trail the next morning. We decided to bring out Mark’s niece, Jules with us for her first backpacking trip, she hiked with Mark and I for a week! Needless to say we were hiking a little bit slower this week, but enjoying it all the same! I feel so lucky to get to share this experience with the people I love!

Ready to start hiking- A big thanks to Logan for the photos and rides!

This past week was much different from the rest of my thru hike! I’m sure the next month will see quite a few more changes, but I’m excited for what’s to come! -Nic

Oh the weather outside is frightful

After being in Salida for three days waiting out the storm, I was excited to find another hiker eager to get back on trail.

Neopolitan and I headed out from Salida on Thursday afternoon. Monarch crest was snowy and cold, but hikeable. We ran into two other hikers that day. We were more than excited, however, to have shelter from the snow in this snowmobile cabin on Marshall pass.

The snow stopped on Friday, but the hiking still took us through some big drifts and as the snow started to melt we saw some muddy, slushy trail.

Conditions improved after that and we enjoyed some beautiful hiking into lakecity!

Mark will be joining me in less than a week, so these upcoming days will be the last of my “solo” hike. I’m enjoying these days and looking forward to the next month of hiking with Mark! -Nic